The original "celebrity" chef, Julia Child introduced Americans to cooking beyond cans—and to having a good time in the kitchen. Photo: James Scherer

Remembering Julia Child

"The only way to begin cooking is to start right in", "Learn how to cook!", "…one is not born knowing how; one learns by doing."—Julia Child

"Julia Child passed away quietly in her sleep three days before her 92nd birthday," the news report said. I was stunned. For years it had been whispered she was nearing the end. But it never really sank in. She was always there, lining my book shelves calmly presenting perfect culinary techniques in her whimsical practical prose whenever I'd reach for one of her books in a panic to remedy a dish in the kitchen that just wasn't working out.

I've never actually read one of her books cover to cover but they've always served as a backbone to my research or as a starting point when I'm in need of divine culinary inspiration. What would Julia have done? How does Julia make chocolate Mousse? What does Julia do when her Hollandaise breaks? What soups does Julia favor? How does Julia roast a chicken?

I feel a great sense of loss though I suppose nothing will change for me with her passing. I did not know her personally. Her books sit on my shelves where they always have. They will be of the first I reach for when culinary disasters strike. When I need to brush up on a technique I haven't practiced at all or in many years she will be there to guide me just as she always has.

But she will never again arrive at the California restaurant I was heading at the time, as she did one sunny afternoon, and order the Bacon, Lettuce, Tomato and Avocado sandwich on homemade sourdough bread with real aioli and rave about it with the same bravado she did the first time I made one for her. She will not be told by the waiter who handed her a tattered, torn and revered first edition copy of her book, From Julia Child's Kitchen, with photographs and drawings by Paul Child, that, "Kathleen is too shy to come out but would be honored if you would sign this for her." I couldn't bear to disturb her lunch. And I really was too shy. I couldn't have strung two comprehensive words together I was so nervous. I think I made the sandwich four times. I wanted it to be right.

"The aioli is perfect", she said. I beamed with pride when the news traveled back to the kitchen. I'd learned the technique from Judy Rodgers in her Zuni Café kitchen. It wasn't until today that I thought about just how much Julia Child has impacted my culinary career. Though I never worked with her personally, I have learned from her at the hands of my teachers, some of whom worked with her directly and or knew her personally. It is extraordinary to think of how many lives she has positively impacted through her passion to cook. And of how many lives she will continue to impact through her students who live on and teach.

From now on, whenever I sit down to a meal I will enthusiastically contemplate in what ways it might directly or indirectly be a product of Julia's teachings. In the meantime, I think I'll read, From Julia Child's Kitchen, from beginning to end. I have a lot more to learn. And for the opportunities she's provided to all of us through her volumes of teaching and the books she's left us with, I'm deeply thankful.

My good friend, Maureen Petrosky, had the opportunity to interview Julia a few months ago. Read and enjoy!

—Kathleen Daelemans

America's Culinary Treasure
by Maureen C. Petrosky

This interview originally appeared in the March/April issue of The Wine Report.

At the root of it all, war gave birth to the world's most recognizable chef. We all know Julia Child as a television icon, pioneer in the kitchen and a master of French cooking. But this gal had Irish fare in her belly before that of French, and was deeply endeared to another CIA before she loved the Culinary Institute of America.

During World War II, Julia McWilliams served the Office of Strategic Services, a forerunner of the Central Intelligence Agency, in Washington, D.C. On assignment in Ceylon, now Sri Lanka, she met her husband Paul. But a post-war assignment for Paul at the American Embassy in Paris began both Paul and Julia's love affair with French cuisine. While there, Julia attended the famous Cordon Bleu cooking school. Later, she published Mastering the Art of French Cooking, which gave way to her first television series, The French Chef. She has since published nine books, hosted numerous cooking shows and made cooking humorous, unpretentious and adventuresome.

Mrs. Child took time in January to answer a few questions about food and wine. She shared her most memorable wine experience and offered her opinion on celebrity chefs. As the interview demonstrates, Julia Child has maintained her signature wit and charm, staying true to her mantra, "...above all have a good time."

Maureen Petrosky: You have been an inspiration to so many aspiring chefs. Who inspired you? And of today's chefs, whom do you admire?

Julia Child: I have been inspired by many people. But the person who influenced me the most was my late husband, Paul Child. I admire many chefs today. There are so many good ones, and the profession is growing and improving constantly. A few of the best (there are so many it would be impossible to list them all!) are Emeril, Thomas Keller, Sara Moulton, and Lydia Bastianich.

MP: What are your thoughts on the celebrity chef craze?

JC: I think the "celeb" chef craze is a wonderful thing because it has inspired lots of people to pursue culinary careers. It has brought cooking into home kitchens across America. Some viewers just like to watch and gain an appreciation for the work involved with preparing a meal, others actually like to learn the techniques and then cook for themselves. Either way it is wonderful!

MP: How did you feel when you were asked to have your kitchen preserved in the Smithsonian Institute?

JC: I was surprised... but pleased and honored indeed. Apparently, it is a very popular exhibit.

MP: What is the most valuable, or your favorite, tool in the kitchen?

JC: It is hard to way what one utensil would be the most valuable. I suppose that if I could only have one tool, it would have to be a good knife. But, I am thrilled to have a great deal of kitchen equipment including my food processor and my Kitchen Aid mixer.

MP: We have heard you call the Culinary Institute of America the Harvard of all cooking schools. What is your opinion of attending cooking school vs. working as an apprentice?

JC: Attending cooking school is a very smart thing to do if you are interested in the culinary arts. It is essential to create a firm base of knowledge with classical training. From there, if you can afford it, you should get a position working as an apprentice in Europe. You need to know how really good food is supposed to taste. Once you have a proper foundation, you can create your own style because you know the basics and can grow from there.

MP: What do you think is the most important role wine plays in the kitchen?

JC: Wine is important in two basic ways. First it can be used as an ingredient—and remember, if the wine isn't good it will not improve the dish! So, use something that tastes delicious! Secondly, wine is a wonderful accompaniment to the meal itself. It complements the flavor of the dish and adds to the ambiance of the meal.

MP: What was your first experience with wine?

JC: My first experience with wine was so long ago that it is hard to remember. When I was growing up, we did not have it at the dinner table at our family meals. I probably had some at a restaurant shortly after graduating from college, but I just don't remember.

MP: What is your most memorable wine experience?

JC: {It} was in the home of some good friends. We had a lovely dinner and an absolutely delicious wine. I turned to look at the bottle, and discovered we were drinking a Cos d'Estournel. I was wonderful.

MP: What advice would you lend to people who are wine curious but afraid of approaching it?

JC: My advice to people approaching wine for the first time is to try different types by the glass to see what category of wine most pleases you. Then you can order by the bottle. So if you are in a good restaurant, do not feel that the more expensive the wine, the better the taste. They should all taste good!

MP: How do feel about the perception of "wine snobs?"

JC: I do not approve of wine snobs.

MP: Often you speak of the pleasures of the table If you could choose to share your dinner table with three people, living or deceased, who would they be?

JC: I would like to have dinner with George Auguste Escoffier [19th-20th century French chef and innovator credited with codifying and simplifying French cuisine], who was historically fascinating, and Curnonsky [20th century French writer and gastronome] because he was such a bon vivant. What a jolly dinner that would be!

Maureen C. Petrosky is a New York-based freelance writer. She also appears on CNN, FOX and MSNBC to chat about food, wine and entertaining.